Wine Makes Me Love Everything

Considering I work in the wine industry, I kind of have to check myself every now and then for objectivity. After all, I loved wine years before I started working for my current company.

Trust me, I sell some shitty wine.

I try to minimize selling said scatological wines. And it's not always exactly terrible wine (well...some of them are). It's just that if one were to pay $10 for brand x's Chardonnay, I would say their money is better spent with dozens of other Chardonnays. The trick is to find the people like the brand, regardless of what I think of the taste, and cater the brand to those people.

But then there are days where the job can truly excite, invigorate, and get the juices flowing.

Before I get into that, I have to say this: I like my job. This job has given me many great experiences. And I've really broadened my depth of understanding, in some ways. While I used to taste dozens of wines a week when I worked in retail, the wines I *do* taste now, I can often taste with a hands on experience. I never feel obligated to rate my wines better, and other distributor's wines worse. I really try to avoid that. So, I'm certainly going to do what I can to show some fairness to all wines.

With that out of the way...holy crap.

I had a chance to try some real stars last week. Some pricey, some on the cheap. But not a single bottle could I say was truly overpriced.

Bruno Paillard Premier Cuvee Non Vintage, Champagne, France: 8.6 ($47-57)
This was a completely legitimate Champagne. 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, the Première Cuvee was a big guy. A strong, golden color alluded to an impressive nose of slight yeast and floral notes, along with sweet lemon. These flavors continued for a bit, sipping and slurping and such.

The toasty side did emerge with reasonable breadth, and rich (caramel?) apples and citrus flavors continued. While still beautiful, it was a touch heavy-handed. It may have been served too warm. If it was 3-4 degrees cooler, this would probably show around a 9.0.

Pairs with "Tangerine" by Led Zeppelin

Alma Rosa Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, California, 2005: 8.8 ($22-27)
One of the most impressive California Chardonnays for the money. Print that. Or copy/paste. Whatever.

What starts out as a lush nose of bright fruit with a touch of oak evolves slightly into something more springlike and fun. I can't say exemplifies prototypical elegance. But the Alma Rosa was fruity (great peach/apricot flavors), and really clean and dry. A refreshing style of Chardonnay that still exudes some depth of character.

Pairs with "Even if You Don't" by Ween

Telmo Rodriguez Basa White, Rueda, Spain, 2007: 7.5 ($13-17)
To be fair, this used to be a bit cheaper a few years back. I recall the 2004 vintage being about $9. But at least they've upped the ante a bit. Three grapes in this blend: Verdejo, Viura, Sauvignon Blanc. And Basa's chalky, nutty nose is quite a spectacle for itself. I mean...it's weird. But weird good.

The fruit profile is awfully heavy on the fresh melon, and that's going to make it a crowd-pleaser (for those who are a little adventurous when it comes to how wines smell). It even leans toward the grapefruit-like tendencies of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Pairs with "Genius of Love" by Tom Tom Club.

More coming soon...

Now That’s What I Call Hits of the ‘90s! (volume one)

Sometimes its not too early for nostalgia and sometimes that ship has since sailed. In fact, some wines- like many a party jam or dance craze- were fashioned for immediate and fleeting consumption. The “Macarena” will always sound the same, no matter how long it sits untouched in a climate-controlled cellar, there’s nothing new to offer.

While this isn’t really all about temporality- no vertical tasting, and I certainly didn’t try these upon original release (or even knew they existed at the time), it is about having had the pleasure to enjoy some awesome wines recently from the 1990s. This is undeniably a great perk of my line of work and its not everyday that someone pulls gems like these out of the cellar, and I compile them into one, easy-to-read blog! You (probably) can’t find hits like these at the store!

Domaine Rene Leclerc, Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 1999: 8.8

An unexpected flavor profile that was quite enjoyable. This Burgundy poured a bit opaque and had a very garnet hue. I suppose I was expecting a meatier, manure-y, masculine wine- like the other G.C.s I’ve had. However, at nearly ten years old, this drank very brightly. Acidity is in the driver’s seat here, but it doesn’t drown out the riders. Mulch, wet earth, wet cherries, and a hint of burnt leaves were all there. Structured and satin-y. This is why there are superfans (and why it’s so pricey).
Pairs with: "The Boy with the Arab Strap," by Belle and Sebastian

Miguel Merino Reserva, Rioja, Spain, 1994: 9.0

Sure, this wine spent a lot of time in oak- French and American. But there’s so much more going on. A basement full of cranberries and black raspberries, as it opened up, it revealed some petrol, lime and citrus. A wonderfully salty red (high compliment) with a spicy finish that recalled some of the flavors used in Spanish cuisine. Eccentric and oh-so-enjoyable.
Pairs with: "Dr. Octagonecologyst", by Dr. Octagon

Mount Eden Estate, Santa Cruz Mountain Chardonnay, California, 1997: 9.2

Ya mo have another Chardonnay! This is the oldest Cali Chard that I’ve tasted and, suffice to say, I’m really excited about their uncanny ability to age. Now, this is likely only true for the best of the best, and the Mount Eden belongs in that class. This is a very clean wine that had great bookends of nose and finish- nuanced and zesty. Dill, scallions, cream, butterscotch and fresh linens with a light peach gracing the mid-palate. This is not the last you’ll hear from us on the topic of Chard.
Pairs with: "69 Love Songs," by The Magnetic Fields

-Lauren

Ya Mo Have A Chardonnay

Ah, dear. Another California Chardonnay.

I'm kidding...after all, there is plenty of quality west coast Chard out there. Wines that can blow you away with their lovely integration of oak and fruit. Wines that can match that juicy lobster you've been salivating for, for what seems like days.

And Lauren's right about a few things: The Golden State is known for what seems like "safe" wines. But that's only the perception. To many, perception is reality, and the truth lies in the Chards that go for the jugular with their unabashed creaminess, often teeming with a sweetness nowhere to be found in the alter ego of Burgundy.

And so truly, 70s pop will throw down to the mom jeans. And so will the Cali Chard. I've got just one for you here, but hell, it's pretty fitting, considering the conversation:

Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Ranches Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, 2006: 8.3

There's an awful lot to love about this wine, but there's plenty to get you bored.

For starters, it's not subtle. Sonoma-Cutrer is entirely a Chardonnay producer from Sonoma County, California. And they've inundated countless restaurants with this wine. And I see why it's went over so well. The creamy oak can't wait to get your pants off, and before you even get the juice in your mouth, you sense the butterball that's coming. Thankfully, there's some citrus vibes floating around.

And it holds true to form. No left-field shockers, no blemishes per se. There really is some enjoyable green apple, pear, and lemon notes. And the oak follows through, ever-present but thankfully not as dominant on the finish as I expected.

What stops this from being an exceptional wine is that there is no real complexity, no elegance, no verve.

But that's okay. It's simple in some ways, but the RRR has it's fans, and deservedly so. ($20-25)

-pairs with "Listen to the Music" by the Doobie Brothers.

-Justin

Climbing the Walls of Oak

We at Pitchfork Wine have never reviewed a California Chardonnay. Until now. I wouldn’t say it’s been neglected intentionally, it’s just not something that awakens the nerdy discourse of other wines we’ve explored. I mean, we also aren’t likely to emphatically analyze the latest Celine Dion in the drunken hours of the early morning. The overt oak-aging and malolactic fermentation that has become a hallmark of domestic Chardonnay, drinks like a schlocky Top 40 tune- aiming for middle-of-the-road acceptance, it forgoes any organic feeling in favor of soul-less melodrama. Sure, “Pour some sugar on me” gets the crowd going, but only because everyone knows the words and knows what to expect. But hey, being that Chardonnay is the most popular varietal in this country, can 50 million screaming fans be wrong?

Yes.

Of course I’m not being fair. Production does not always mean overproduction. Some flourishes and accompaniments can truly be a symphony for the taste buds, improving on the grape’s natural characteristics, rather than muddling them. There is something about California Chardonnay that does seem to evoke 1970s radio hits (in both the best and worst possible sense). You can’t lump Phil Spector and that Swedish guy behind Britney Spears’ hits into the same heap. Alas, my tasting notes on some recent sips (and their aural equivalents):

Hess Chardonnay, Monterrey, 2006: 8.4
Definitely some tropical fruit here, but it’s reigned in with an almost austere acidity. Light pineapple and guava flavors with a touch of minerality. There’s some oak, but not enough to dim the brightness. Best buy- to be enjoyed ice cold on a patio. ($10-13)
-pairs with: “Peg” by Steely Dan

Angeline Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2006: 8.0
This is a wholly reasonable price to pay for a Russian River Chardonnay. Some vanilla, meyer lemon, and crème anglaise, with a decently dry finish. I found this one to be oaker than the Hess, but not overwhelming. Kind of linear, but pleasant. Angeline is the second label from Martin Ray. ($11-14)
-pairs with: “Silly Love Songs” by Wings

Martin Ray Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2006: 8.2
Pineapple, kiwi, and assorted tropical flavors make this substantial wine seem food-friendly. It seemed a little brighter and more nuanced than the Angeline, but not significantly so to command the higher price. ($17-21)
-pairs with: “Tusk” by Fleetwood Mac

Hess Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Su’skol Vineyard 2006: 9.0
Proof that careful manipulation can yield gorgeous results- this wine spent just over a year in 30% new French oak with 30% malolactic fermentation. The creaminess that comes through in this cool-climate Chardonnay is that of a light, lemon curd. Somewhat floral and definitely acidic, it retains a Burgundian grace that is absent in many of its counterparts. ($21-26)
-pairs with: “Livin’ Thing” by Electric Light Orchestra

Saintsbury Brown Ranch Chardonnay, Carneros 2006: 9.2
Wow. This is by far the priciest of the bunch but unquestionably the best and most complex. Saintsbury prides themselves on Burgundian authenticity- this is made from Dijon clone 9596 and forms the basis for their basic Chardonnays. Lillies, green apple, pineapple nose with some distinct vanilla extract and pear on the palate. Harmonious oak and mineral balance with a long acidic finish. ($40-45)
-pairs with: “The Rain Song” by Led Zeppelin

- Lauren

That's one of those skills that I learned in my school...

Underwhelmed.

That's how I felt about a few whites I had from South America. There was a bright spot, but no one's reinventing the wheel here:

Norton Sauvignon Blanc, Mendoza, Argentina, 2006: 6.3

Sauvignon Blanc is continuously a disappointment if it says Argentina or Chile on the label. I don't know when they're going to start competing with New Zealand and California as far as the ol' quality/dollar ratio matters. The Norton felt a bit fat oddly. There was a little okay citrus, something like lemon. But then a whole lot of...nothing. But then my tongue was hit by just...oh...what is that? Ohhhh. Alcohol. Drinkable sure. But there's stuff out there that just destroys this SB for the money. ($9-11)

Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc, Colchagua, Chile, 2007: 7.4

There's a name on this bottle that should probably catch the attention of a few people: Lafite-Rothschild. So one of the leading Bordelaise families has been hard at work in the land west of the Andes, trying to go for the under $20 price-point. This ain't a bad wine, I'll say. But it *is* average. The trick is to not even think about the incredibly diverse range of styles that Sauvignon Blanc imparts and creates, depending on where it's grown.

See, there's some well-balanced grapefruit, sea salt, and sourdough on the nose. And it's surely a friendly, fruity dry wine. And while it will never compare to the concentrated-citrus style of Marlborough, where the bottle practically sweats out lemon drops, Los Vascos' Sauvignon Blanc is a little more where the Chilean variety should be: easy, lively, balanced. ($12-15)

Dona Paula Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina, 2006: 7.7

Oaky and buttery. Like a newly-constructed teeter-totter after a good rain. Spice, green pear, and more oak. And then more. But actually, it's kind of enjoyable in it's own unabashedness. The finish was slightly unimpressive. I'd drink a glass of this once in a blue moon though. ($16-20).

-Justin