Now That’s What I Call Hits of the ‘90s! (volume one)

Sometimes its not too early for nostalgia and sometimes that ship has since sailed. In fact, some wines- like many a party jam or dance craze- were fashioned for immediate and fleeting consumption. The “Macarena” will always sound the same, no matter how long it sits untouched in a climate-controlled cellar, there’s nothing new to offer.

While this isn’t really all about temporality- no vertical tasting, and I certainly didn’t try these upon original release (or even knew they existed at the time), it is about having had the pleasure to enjoy some awesome wines recently from the 1990s. This is undeniably a great perk of my line of work and its not everyday that someone pulls gems like these out of the cellar, and I compile them into one, easy-to-read blog! You (probably) can’t find hits like these at the store!

Domaine Rene Leclerc, Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 1999: 8.8

An unexpected flavor profile that was quite enjoyable. This Burgundy poured a bit opaque and had a very garnet hue. I suppose I was expecting a meatier, manure-y, masculine wine- like the other G.C.s I’ve had. However, at nearly ten years old, this drank very brightly. Acidity is in the driver’s seat here, but it doesn’t drown out the riders. Mulch, wet earth, wet cherries, and a hint of burnt leaves were all there. Structured and satin-y. This is why there are superfans (and why it’s so pricey).
Pairs with: "The Boy with the Arab Strap," by Belle and Sebastian

Miguel Merino Reserva, Rioja, Spain, 1994: 9.0

Sure, this wine spent a lot of time in oak- French and American. But there’s so much more going on. A basement full of cranberries and black raspberries, as it opened up, it revealed some petrol, lime and citrus. A wonderfully salty red (high compliment) with a spicy finish that recalled some of the flavors used in Spanish cuisine. Eccentric and oh-so-enjoyable.
Pairs with: "Dr. Octagonecologyst", by Dr. Octagon

Mount Eden Estate, Santa Cruz Mountain Chardonnay, California, 1997: 9.2

Ya mo have another Chardonnay! This is the oldest Cali Chard that I’ve tasted and, suffice to say, I’m really excited about their uncanny ability to age. Now, this is likely only true for the best of the best, and the Mount Eden belongs in that class. This is a very clean wine that had great bookends of nose and finish- nuanced and zesty. Dill, scallions, cream, butterscotch and fresh linens with a light peach gracing the mid-palate. This is not the last you’ll hear from us on the topic of Chard.
Pairs with: "69 Love Songs," by The Magnetic Fields

-Lauren

French Whites amidst Crosstown Traffic

Whites from France always seem to be unpredictable. Well, they seem to because it's pretty easy to not know what to expect. If you want to talk about Sancerre, you might think "well...it's Sauvignon Blanc. I know what Sauvignon Blanc tastes like." But Sancerre is nothing like SB from New Zealand. And whites from Rhone are nothing like anything else.

Ultimately, French whites across the board might be what I get most excited about. There's so much to learn. So much variety and values (although the latter isn't always so easy to find).

I got my hands on a few recently, and damn it was a good time.

Vieux Chateau Gaubert Graves Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2006:8.6

Graves is an appellation in Bordeaux never known for it's pristine elegance or top-of-the-line wines. That's usually left to places like Pauillac, St. Julien, and Pomerol, to name a few. Graves really has been a place to go for a trustworthy Bordeaux that's a fraction of the price of the others. And you'll see both whites and reds from Graves, which is kind of a rarity for appellations in Bordeaux.

Chateaux Gaubert's white was a great surprise. Part Sauvignon Blanc, part Sémillon, it was actually a little more round in body than most white Bordeaux seem to be. instead of part raciness, part minerality, I really found some elegance to this, but rather in a fresh fruit kind of way. There was some nice grassy notes on the nose, along with some strong lemon and a hint of basil. Thankfully, the actual fruit of the wine, the taste, was pretty harmonius to these notions. And some herbal spice on the finish added some more nuances.

Solid, solid wine. Not fickle, not too coy. Fresh, lush, and totally consumable, even with a bit of grit. ($12-17)
-pairs with: "The Rolling People" by The Verve.

William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux, Burgundy, France, 2005: 8.8

I loved this Chardonnay. Loved it.

The problem is that it's not really complex. What you do get is an intense, but kind of sleek wine. Chablis is never cheap, and this is no exception. But it could be worth the cash if you're a fan of precise fruit and jolting minerality. Cause damn, kids, it's in here. Beautiful pear, green apple and a saltiness really define this Burgundy, through and through. And this is light years away from the stylings of Napa. This is haunting old world Chardonnay. I love it. But man, you don't want to fall in love with it, unless you can find a good deal. ($28-34)
-pairs with: "Seamus" by Pink Floyd.

Chateau de Montfort Vouvray, Loire, France, 2005: 8.0

This isn't the kind of Vouvray you see at your local Kwik Stop.

Granted, there are great Vouvrays out there that are sweet, but there surely are some excellent dry Vouvrays as well. That's the funny thing about Vouvray. It's all about diversity. It's 100 percent Chenin Blanc, and it's a good one. There's not much under the covers with it, but what you get is nice: flinty, with a mellow apple approach. Juicy, fun, with only a touch of earth. A pretty decent buy, methinks. ($12-15)
-pairs with: "The Day John Henry Died" by Drive-By Truckers.

Pascal Jolivet Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France, 2005: 7.1

This was a bit disconcerting to me.

I still put this in my "likely enjoyable (before Elton John met coke)" category. But not by much. Especially when you see the price tag. One Hundred percent Sauvignon Blanc, Jolivet's wine is purely a smoky, gutty, racy wine. But it's feisty as all getout. I'm starting to believe that Sancerre/Pouilly Fumé is more to my taste when it's older. ($24-29)
-pairs with: "Popular" by Nada Surf.

-Justin