Climbing the Walls of Oak

We at Pitchfork Wine have never reviewed a California Chardonnay. Until now. I wouldn’t say it’s been neglected intentionally, it’s just not something that awakens the nerdy discourse of other wines we’ve explored. I mean, we also aren’t likely to emphatically analyze the latest Celine Dion in the drunken hours of the early morning. The overt oak-aging and malolactic fermentation that has become a hallmark of domestic Chardonnay, drinks like a schlocky Top 40 tune- aiming for middle-of-the-road acceptance, it forgoes any organic feeling in favor of soul-less melodrama. Sure, “Pour some sugar on me” gets the crowd going, but only because everyone knows the words and knows what to expect. But hey, being that Chardonnay is the most popular varietal in this country, can 50 million screaming fans be wrong?

Yes.

Of course I’m not being fair. Production does not always mean overproduction. Some flourishes and accompaniments can truly be a symphony for the taste buds, improving on the grape’s natural characteristics, rather than muddling them. There is something about California Chardonnay that does seem to evoke 1970s radio hits (in both the best and worst possible sense). You can’t lump Phil Spector and that Swedish guy behind Britney Spears’ hits into the same heap. Alas, my tasting notes on some recent sips (and their aural equivalents):

Hess Chardonnay, Monterrey, 2006: 8.4
Definitely some tropical fruit here, but it’s reigned in with an almost austere acidity. Light pineapple and guava flavors with a touch of minerality. There’s some oak, but not enough to dim the brightness. Best buy- to be enjoyed ice cold on a patio. ($10-13)
-pairs with: “Peg” by Steely Dan

Angeline Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2006: 8.0
This is a wholly reasonable price to pay for a Russian River Chardonnay. Some vanilla, meyer lemon, and crème anglaise, with a decently dry finish. I found this one to be oaker than the Hess, but not overwhelming. Kind of linear, but pleasant. Angeline is the second label from Martin Ray. ($11-14)
-pairs with: “Silly Love Songs” by Wings

Martin Ray Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2006: 8.2
Pineapple, kiwi, and assorted tropical flavors make this substantial wine seem food-friendly. It seemed a little brighter and more nuanced than the Angeline, but not significantly so to command the higher price. ($17-21)
-pairs with: “Tusk” by Fleetwood Mac

Hess Chardonnay, Napa Valley, Su’skol Vineyard 2006: 9.0
Proof that careful manipulation can yield gorgeous results- this wine spent just over a year in 30% new French oak with 30% malolactic fermentation. The creaminess that comes through in this cool-climate Chardonnay is that of a light, lemon curd. Somewhat floral and definitely acidic, it retains a Burgundian grace that is absent in many of its counterparts. ($21-26)
-pairs with: “Livin’ Thing” by Electric Light Orchestra

Saintsbury Brown Ranch Chardonnay, Carneros 2006: 9.2
Wow. This is by far the priciest of the bunch but unquestionably the best and most complex. Saintsbury prides themselves on Burgundian authenticity- this is made from Dijon clone 9596 and forms the basis for their basic Chardonnays. Lillies, green apple, pineapple nose with some distinct vanilla extract and pear on the palate. Harmonious oak and mineral balance with a long acidic finish. ($40-45)
-pairs with: “The Rain Song” by Led Zeppelin

- Lauren