French Whites amidst Crosstown Traffic

Whites from France always seem to be unpredictable. Well, they seem to because it's pretty easy to not know what to expect. If you want to talk about Sancerre, you might think "well...it's Sauvignon Blanc. I know what Sauvignon Blanc tastes like." But Sancerre is nothing like SB from New Zealand. And whites from Rhone are nothing like anything else.

Ultimately, French whites across the board might be what I get most excited about. There's so much to learn. So much variety and values (although the latter isn't always so easy to find).

I got my hands on a few recently, and damn it was a good time.

Vieux Chateau Gaubert Graves Blanc, Bordeaux, France, 2006:8.6

Graves is an appellation in Bordeaux never known for it's pristine elegance or top-of-the-line wines. That's usually left to places like Pauillac, St. Julien, and Pomerol, to name a few. Graves really has been a place to go for a trustworthy Bordeaux that's a fraction of the price of the others. And you'll see both whites and reds from Graves, which is kind of a rarity for appellations in Bordeaux.

Chateaux Gaubert's white was a great surprise. Part Sauvignon Blanc, part Sémillon, it was actually a little more round in body than most white Bordeaux seem to be. instead of part raciness, part minerality, I really found some elegance to this, but rather in a fresh fruit kind of way. There was some nice grassy notes on the nose, along with some strong lemon and a hint of basil. Thankfully, the actual fruit of the wine, the taste, was pretty harmonius to these notions. And some herbal spice on the finish added some more nuances.

Solid, solid wine. Not fickle, not too coy. Fresh, lush, and totally consumable, even with a bit of grit. ($12-17)
-pairs with: "The Rolling People" by The Verve.

William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux, Burgundy, France, 2005: 8.8

I loved this Chardonnay. Loved it.

The problem is that it's not really complex. What you do get is an intense, but kind of sleek wine. Chablis is never cheap, and this is no exception. But it could be worth the cash if you're a fan of precise fruit and jolting minerality. Cause damn, kids, it's in here. Beautiful pear, green apple and a saltiness really define this Burgundy, through and through. And this is light years away from the stylings of Napa. This is haunting old world Chardonnay. I love it. But man, you don't want to fall in love with it, unless you can find a good deal. ($28-34)
-pairs with: "Seamus" by Pink Floyd.

Chateau de Montfort Vouvray, Loire, France, 2005: 8.0

This isn't the kind of Vouvray you see at your local Kwik Stop.

Granted, there are great Vouvrays out there that are sweet, but there surely are some excellent dry Vouvrays as well. That's the funny thing about Vouvray. It's all about diversity. It's 100 percent Chenin Blanc, and it's a good one. There's not much under the covers with it, but what you get is nice: flinty, with a mellow apple approach. Juicy, fun, with only a touch of earth. A pretty decent buy, methinks. ($12-15)
-pairs with: "The Day John Henry Died" by Drive-By Truckers.

Pascal Jolivet Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France, 2005: 7.1

This was a bit disconcerting to me.

I still put this in my "likely enjoyable (before Elton John met coke)" category. But not by much. Especially when you see the price tag. One Hundred percent Sauvignon Blanc, Jolivet's wine is purely a smoky, gutty, racy wine. But it's feisty as all getout. I'm starting to believe that Sancerre/Pouilly Fumé is more to my taste when it's older. ($24-29)
-pairs with: "Popular" by Nada Surf.

-Justin