O Valencia

Torres
Viña Esmeralda 2005
Catalunya, Spain
Rating: 8.8

All right, I am fully aware that the Torres wineries are located in the Penedes, which is much closer to Barcelona than Valencia. Bear with me. Viña Esmeralda is unique blend of 85% Moscatel and 15% Gewürztraminer of which my preconceived notions were nil. The nose can only be described as a hug from a heavily made-up European grandmother: perfume, floral, slight muskiness, and a hint of hairspray. I'm not sure I've seen the latter adjective used in the wine press, but it's not the first time I've smelled a little Aqua Net in a white wine (and found it off-putting). Alas, first impressions, with wine as with people, can only reveal so much.

Almonds, citrus, and pineapple all came to mind as I sipped this treat of a wine that rode the line between whimsy and elegance. Eating a few raw almonds with the wine brought out more pronounced flavor and it seemed to compliment Muenster cheese quite well. However, the well-balanced acidity and light fruit could stand up to a heftier, saltier Iberian cheese for sure. A truly transcendant white for a mere $13, if pressed to compare, I'd liken it to a White Burgandy meets a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Old world meets new world, brash yet subdued, what could it's aural component possibly be?

The latest effort from The Decemberists, The Crane Wife, is analogous to my experience with Viña Esmeralda. Those bookish, cardigan-wearing kids from Portland have always had one foot in the old world while turning out contemporary pop (a genre which seems to be undergoing a renaissance worthy of no longer using the term as a pejorative). Elitists be damned, their folk-meets-prog major label debut is as much of an excercise in accessibility as it is in esotericism. Chamber pop melodies, kick-ass guitar solos, and a track so long I momentarily thought I was at a Yes concert when I saw them live last month. They deserve all the air-play they can get, just as this interesting white blend is a worthy competitor of other less-interesting wines in its price range.

-Lauren