Tuesday, April 1, 2008

The Case of Borsao Vs. Borsao

In the words of the immortal Joey Lawrence, "woah." Indeed it has been a busy and turbulent sabbatical from this here wine blog. Like Justin, I have also switched jobs twice (but only switched addresses thrice). I think I might be an adult now: I wake up early, workworkwork, come home, eat, play online scrabble, watch TV and go to bed. However, I'm making some in-roads in not being exhausted and boring. Evidence: seeking the answer to a question that has long weighed heavy on my mind, is Borsao Tres Picos really worth twice the price of Borsao Red?

Both wines are estate bottled by Bodgeas Borsao, which is in the Campo de Borja D.O. of Spain, located in the Aragon region slightly west of central Spain. Both are primarily made from Garnacha- the native Spanish grape that was brought to France, where it is known as Grenache, rising to popularity as the basis for many Rhone and Languedoc blends. Both are of the 2006 vintage and weigh in at 14% alcohol. I have long championed the basic Borsao Red as a pleasant, easy-drinkin', and affordable representation of this very likeable and versatile grape. I had yet to scale the Tres Picos, but chose to do so with the aforementioned sibling as my trusty sherpa.

Bodegas Borsao Red 2006: 7.0
This is a blend of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo. It possesses a deep ruby color and a very astringent, alcohol nose without much fruit, aside from a hint of blackberry. Undeniably smooth, the palate gave way to some strawberry, rhubarb, and bubblegum flavor, which lend to the possibility of carbonic maceration (a forced-fermentation most commonly practiced in young reds, such as Beaujolais Nouveau). The finish is light but lingering and slightly dry. As this wine opened up, there was more detectable fruit, but a loss of brightness as it quickly became thin. It's still a great quaffer for the price, but a simple pleasure- nothing more or less.

($7-11)

Bodegas Borsao Tres Picos 2006: 8.4
100% Garnacha, this one showed a darker plum color and a similarly tight nose. Oh, but on the palate, a much different flavor profile: darker fruits, such as boysenberry, and a lot of leather. Dense and meaty with a long lean finish. As this opened up, it seemed to take on a richer flavor and a greater complexity. Still pretty smooth and simple, it expressed more concentrated nuances that are likely the result of low yields (according the label, anyhow). This could possibly even be cellared for a couple years. Tres Picos also demonstrated the power of terroir- it had a very Spanish feel and most likely wouldn't be mistaken for a French Grenache. Or would it? Perhaps this shall be taken up at a future blind tasting.

($16-21)

While both wines were definitely enjoyable in their own right, I'd be more apt to revisit the Tres Picos. It didn't truly out-do the Borsao Red in complexity, but it did so in overall balance, grace, and richness. It's also quite versatile in it's ability to pair well with a variety of foods. However, if you're looking for a wine under $10 to throw back without nerdy analysis, the basic red blend will do you just fine.

In the meantime, keep your feet on the ground, and keep reaching for the wine!

-Lauren

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